More than a month after I began this post, I’m forcing myself to sit down and finish it. This was supposed to be part of my summer vacation update, which was cut short due to my hospitalization.
This first group of photos was from the Aeon trip to Katsuyama Ski Jam — our summer vacation party. We took a charter bus from Takefu to Katsuyama on a swelteringly hot day. The trip was about 1.5 hours through beautiful countryside and mountains. The site, Ski Jam, functions as a ski slope in the winter, and a tourist trap in the summer. Everything was so expensive it made Disney World seem like a bargain. The food was fine, though, so no complaints there, and it was the first time I was able to find “dark beer” in Japan, which was delicious.
It was *waaay* too hot though, and being a ski slope there were not really any cool tree spots to take cover in — not good for a summer bbq. We did get to play on the grass sleds (300 yen for 30 minutes — oy!) which was fun, but not fun enough. The hill wasn’t very steep and grass just isn’t all that fast for sledding. I had to be a jackass and stand on my sled, which drew a lot of eyes but made the experience entertaining enough that I didn’t mind spending that much.
After that, though, came the awesome part. Everyone split into groups to try other various activities. Some people played on the zip cords, some people played table tennis, and some people just escaped to the air conditioned lodge. One of my coworkers, Hitomi, and I, however, went to the wooden bridge walk. The picture on the brochure wasn’t much — I thought it would be a walk in the woods with one rope bridge… but it turned out that they had built a whole network of rope and wood walkways up in the trees, so you could walk around a small foresty copse all high above the ground. Plus in the forest the air was cool and pleasant — nothing like under the sweltering sun. The photos can’t capture the beauty of the trees or the amazing views it offered, but suffice it to say it was one amazing forest walk. The whole time I felt like I was back playing Myst for the first time. While everyone else was sweating in the heat, the three of us actually took a nap on a platform above the forest floor. Very cool.

I lost my balance trying to stand on the grass sled; that's my sled halfway up the hill.

The forest walk felt like a level in Myst.

Good view of the mountains from the tree tops

Hitomi in the trees
Hitomi’s aunt had given us two tickets to a Noh performance on the same day, so after the BBQ, we hurried out to the village of Awatabe, near Takefu. Noh is hard to describe, but it’s a traditional type of play with very distinct vocal patterns and movements. It’s beautiful and surreal.
The Noh we went to see was performed by Nomura Mansai, a very famous Japanese actor. I remember back when I was working at the JASGP he came to Washington DC to perform Noh, and I really wanted to go — but not by myself. So this time I was able to go with Hitomi for free, and the performance was outdoors at a shrine. It was such a fantastic experience.
The previous night Hitomi had explained the Japanese story summaries for me so I wouldn’t be so in the dark during the performance. There were a few Kyogen performances too, which are also very old and traditional and hard to understand, but just a little bit less difficult. With Hitomi’s explanation the night before, I was able to follow the stories. They were actually pretty funny. One was about a rice merchant from Sado island who bumps into a rice merchant from Echigo on their way to the capital. They start having a bragging contest that ends up a debate over what a fox looks like. The Sado merchant didn’t want to make Sado seem more backwards than other prefectures, so he bribed a local lord to tell him what a fox looks like and then vote in his favor while acting impartial. It was pretty funny. The second Kyogen was about a servant charged to buy some sake for a festival, but his master gave him no money and ran out of credit at the store, so the servant has to trick the shopkeeper into giving him the sake. Not as funny as the other one, but still good.
The Noh performance was the final one, and absolutely impossible to follow. Hitomi said she also couldn’t understand the difficult language. It was a story about a man who is charged to forge a sword for the emperor but has no partner. He prays to Inari, the fox god, who sends a child to help him forge the sword. The chanting and music were haunting, and the costumes were so complex and beautiful… the whole event seemed like some kind of fantasy. It was really cool.

The entrance to the shrine/park where we saw Noh

The Noh stage

Lanterns in the shrine area around the stage
The next day we went to Osaka. Hitomi’s summer vacation was nixed and instead she had to go to a study meeting in Osaka. (We had originally planned to go to an onsen in Ishikawa… sigh.) But to make the most on it, we went to Osaka a day early and did some sight seeing. It was another swelteringly hot day, so the line at the aquarium was out the door and a 45 minute wait. It was a painful wait under the burning sun, with no shade at all. But the Osaka aquarium was really nice.
Afterwards we went to a mall nearby and had dinner, visited a tiny mall petting zoo, and saw a really awesome ninja shop. We went through a ninja maze in the mall, too, which was a store converted into a tiny little funhouse with a ninja theme. It was fun, but I don’t think Hitomi could understand why I thought it was so cool.

The Osaka Aquarium

Super awesome octopus!

Kaiyuukan has 2 whale sharks and a giant manta ray in a huge tank.

Crabs from the ocean floor that look like they came from outer space

Hitomi and a sheep -- too cute!!!

This monkey really wanted whatever was in Hitomi's bag.

Japanese book stores are filled with such amazing art. I wish I could buy it all!
The next day I had planned to go to Osaka Castle by myself while Hitomi went to work, but I was just too exhausted. So I rested a lot and then went to the electronics shop and drooled all day. We went out to dinner and explored the book stores around the station. Big city bookstores in Japan are amazing! They are literally floor-to-ceiling with books, and some aisles are as narrow as 1 foot! Most of the books aren’t even labeled (let alone in English), and some of them are well over 100 years old. You can find packs of pre-WW2 post cards and just tons of amazing treasures. Collectors would be in heaven. There are also tons of woodblock prints. The mustly smell of these shops and the cramped feeling of them is an amazing experience, and I love it. I wish I had tons of money to buy all of the artwork though…