The first week in Japan is Golden Week, and you may remember my posts from the previous years’ Golden Weeks. It’s a great time to be in Japan — the cherry blossoms have fallen and the green leaves are just popping out, plenty of flowers are everywhere, and the weather has become warm and pleasant, while the days have become long enough to enjoy. It’s also one of the few big holidays that virtually everyone in Japan gets off, and thus it’s packed full of festivals.
This year, being just after our first anniversary, my wife and I finally got to go on our honeymoon (or when-we-have-money-moon). We took a short but awesome 3 days/2 nights trip to neighboring Gifu and Toyama prefectures. Although it was a bit more expensive, we took the train for comfort (and it’s a good thing we did because trying to find parking in the places we went would have almost ruined the whole trip. And happily the weather was absolutely perfect for the whole of Golden Week.
Our first stop was Gero onsen in Gifu. It’s a big hot spring resort town, and the city is full of gift shops, restaurants, and foot baths. Our hotel was located a little ways from the main hot springs area, so it was less crowded, and we also had a great view of the whole city.

The view from our hotel window

Another view from our room
Gero also has an interesting legend: back in the 1200′s, a great earthquake struck and the town’s hot spring stopped. The townsfolk were distraught because the whole industry of the town relies on the spring. For days, the townspeople fretted, and then they noticed that a particular white heron had been flying around the same spot for a while. The townspeople followed the heron and they discovered that the hot spring’s location had moved; the heron had found it and “taught” them its new location. A temple dedicated to the hot spring was built, and now the white heron is the symbol of the city.

A stream near the hotel

A shrine in Gero

Climbing up to Hot Spring Temple
The next day we visited the town area in the morning (and went to Hot Spring Temple), and around noon we left to our 2nd destination: Unazuki in Toyama.
Unazuki is another famous hot spring site. Located well in the mountains along the Kurobe river (and accessible by local train only), Unazuki is hardly describable as a hamlet. The town is 75% hotels, 20% shops, and 5 % residents. It’s a little bizarre, but very charming. We arrived late in the afternoon after a serious train trek, and although it was still bright, the sun had long set below the very high mountain tops.

The whole trip looked like this!

Cafe Mozart in Unazuki

Our "Special Room" in Unazuki

The view from our room

Another view from our room

Another view from our room

Our futons
Our hotel was absolute luxury. Hitomi’s mom had splurged for us and payed for the “special room,” a pretty big Japanese style room with an incredible view of the Kurobe river, away from the other rooms. I love Japanese style houses, so the room alone was enough for me, but the overlook was breathtaking. We slept with the windows open (and the paper windows closed to keep the bugs out) and could hear the river all night long. The hot spring here was also a very nice outdoor spring, nearly scalding hot, but very relaxing. Dinner was good, ryokan style, and the only thing that gave me a little trouble was the plate of raw squid, which we had to dip into boiling water briefly before eating. By briefly I mean 2 or 3 seconds. Any longer and the internal organs expand and spill out of the animal’s orifices, making it far less appetizing. I have a thing about eating eyes, and these ones turned white before me as I boiled them. So I only ate half the plate and gave the rest to my wife.

"Onsen Tamago," boiling eggs in the hot spring

Appetizing, no?

The outdoor hot spring

The lobby had a sculpture of a chicken...
The next day we took a small train deep into the mountains. There are a series of dams there along the Kurobe river, and this train line was built in order to construct the dams. Now it’s all for tourist purposes, and for good reason. We took about a 1 hour train ride on the canyon walls of snow-covered mountains, with a bright turquoise river running beneath us. Wild monkeys were jumping around the walls, and though we didn’t see any, there are also red deer here (like the ones you see in Princess Mononoke). Unfortunately because the snows haven’t thawed yet, we didn’t get to travel much at the end of the train track (there are a number of hiking trails), but the ride itself was the main attraction. Plus I saw wild monkeys!!!

Someone wore this shirt on the train!

Riding the train

Look at that water!

Someone built a Norman castle at this dam... Zombie-safe, I guess?

It's like real-life D&D!

Another dam

A pile of unmelted snow -- at first we thought it was rocks and dirt

It's like 70 degrees and the snow won't melt!

In the winter the tracks snow over so the workers have to take this tunnel to get to the dams. It's like 6 miles long...

Snowy!

We made it to the last station, but there are more dams further upstream.

This is called "hitokuiiwa" -- the rock that eats humans!

Monkeys!

Monkeys crossing the bridge!

A monkey eating leaves!
We got took the train home the next day, and 3 days felt like a whole week. We got home with still some of Golden Week left, and we got to see the big festival on Children’s Day at Otaki-jinja, where we were married. Like in previous years, the locals from Hitomi’s hometown fought over the local goddess’s shrine, and at the end of the night, rode her up the mountain. We hadn’t traveled up in previous years, but this year we took the hike up to the top, well into the night, in the pitch black, guided only by our red paper lanterns and the sound of people singing. It was hot and tiring, and so much fun. Hitomi also felt really happy to be able to thank the goddess who we were wed before, one year after our wedding.

At the shrine fight, Iwamoto-jinja

Tired out after climbing the mountain